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Days on the road: 32
Miles Driven: 7500
National Parks visited 12
States entered 18
Money Spent ~$2000
Tolls $4.65 (Mostly WV oddly enough)
Towns named Fruita visited 2
Photos taken ~2000
Bears seen 2
Coytes seen 1
See all the photos at the link below
http://wisertime.zenfolio.com/
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Monday, June 29, 2009
Rocky Mt. High: Rocky Mtn NP to Boulder
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Leaving Arches was a welcome thought to escape the sun. I drove up the scenic byway along the Colorado River and passed ranches, wineries and historic places. A very wild and remote place along Eastern Utah. I reached Grand Junction and grabbed some quick food and a refreshing ice cold drink. Being in the desert really makes you appreciate ice even more than normal. I love my cold drinks. I stopped at the welcome center and got some brochures, since I wasn't completely sure what I was going to do in CO. There was a lot to choose from. I noticed Colorado National Monument was only 2 miles to the South and since I had an annual pass, I figured I could check it out and leave if it was nothing special. I am not sure I ever heard of it before. It is a national park, but the name is slightly decieving. I drove up some more windy roads from the valley floor and reached another high plateu. It was hot again, but not quite as intense as Utah, but still uncomfortable and I was trying to rehydrate. I decided to keep this a mostly air conditioned quick venture. It was about a 25 mile detour and ran from Fruita (note I also stayed in a town named Fruita in Utah) to Grand Jct. where I could pick up 70 again. It was mostly a drive along canyon rims with more stone monuments sticking up from the basin floors. An otherwise impressive view/park, but I was a little canyoned out and had seen so many over the last week or two, I didn't find it that exciting anymore. I made a few quick stops and took just a few photos.
I drove on to Central Colorado on 70 again. A very impressive highway that winds along and crosses over the Colorado River occassionally. The width and rapids vary as you travel along the many miles of the mighty river. The areas get quite narrow in places and the opposing Westbound lanes are often elevated and slightly overlapping the Eastbound lanes. I assume these were added later or they just could not carve deeper into the wall without creating rockslides. Several tunnels are encountered along the way, none as impressive as the Eisenhower tunnell that penetrates the Loveland pass and is about a mile long. I stopped at Glenwood Springs. A town built around the Glenwood springs pool and hotel. It has a massive pool and adjoining pools, water slides etc and a historic hotel next to the property. The pools are about the length of a football field or more and of varying temperatures 91-104F. The town accross the river looked quaint and bustling with some kind of festival and many restaurants and shops. Its interesting how the towns make use of the limited space of the mountain river valleys. Most of Central Co is like this from what I've seen. Nothing but peaks and narrow slots between. I needed some relaxation and it was a beautiful day here, so I decided to visit the springs and soak for a few hrs. Afterwords, I noticed a camping sign at the next exit up and it was early eve. I had considered driving up to Dillon lake near the major ski areas of Summit county, but was not sure of the camping situation there. I thought I would check this out anyway and maybe spend the night here. The campsites were right along the Colo River...this time really along it. Right up to the banks with trees to shade you, showers, wifi, laundry etc. Seemed good. They had one spot left and it was the one I noticed. At $38 w tax, it was a bit steep for a tent site, but it seemed like a cool place to bed down and let the rapids lull me to sleep. You only live once right?
Well, I set up camp and went back to the springs for another visit since I had paid for an all day pass. I came back, uploaded some pics from the previous days, charged up my phone, batteries and then went to bed. This was a nice little resort, and the river was very calming. Just one little hitch that would change my feelings about this place. At 115 am a train came barrelling down the tracks on the other side of the river, which is approx 30-50 foot wide at this point and meanders along the steep canyon walls, shaped by the strong currents. The train was louder than normal due to the bouncing off the opposing wall and the campsite took, was down at the bottom of a steep hill, so all the sound waves were compressed. The chug-a-chug-a, was almost bearable, but the screaching and whining of the steel wheels grinding on the bends of the steel tracks (or maybe that was the brakes?) was unbelievably loud and deafening and created a weird sorta harmonic effect like the reverb of an electric guitar amplifier. This woke me up, started my heart jumping and forced me to cover my ears. The aftershock made falling back to sleep a challenge. This repeated at least twice more during the night before the sun came up. I was also woke up early by some loud talking girl next door and couldnt sleep, as she would not shut up, shouting almost at the people who were standing next to her. This is a recurring theme. I would be a tired mess the rest of the day.
I can imagine, being the train conductor at night along those mountain routes must be scary. One false move and you could be in the river. Its also rather amazing how some of these routes must have been constructed initially and in such remote areas.
I got to Rocky Mtn. Nat. Park later that morning and drove in the west entrance. The windy roads take you up to 12,183 ft eventually with some stunning views of partially snow capped peaks, melting glaciers and melted tundra. Storms are off in the distance often. I really didn't know much about this park, prior to this trip, but it is pretty impressive. After passing the summit, I felt overcome with exhaustion after a few photo stops and took a short nap in the car. I felt like I was gonna pass out any minute. I was pressed for time to get a campsite, or I would have just taken my time. There was only one on the west side and it was being cleaned up with downed trees and looked a mess. I flipped a coin in my head and went to Morraine campsite. Sign said full. Sigh. I drove up anyway just to check it out. I asked the girl at the booth if she had some recommendations for other campsites, since this was full, and to my amazement she had one site left, just inside the entrance. I checked it out quick and settled on it for 2 nights. It was perfect. A 200 ft walk from the car up a hill but, nicely secluded as you can expect to get in a NP with amazing views of the peaks and meadow below and Sheltered slightly with trees too. I felt very fortunate to land this one.
After setting up camp and having a meal, I did a 2 mi hike to Dream lake. A beautiful mtn. lake, but the mosquitos and flys were so bad, I couldn't relax and enjoy the view. I had to keep moving or get bit. I stopped at Bear lake and one other lake on the way back. Still some snow remained on parts of the trail. I got to bed early and enjoyed a campfire. Once again I was woke up at 730am by some French woman who sounded like she was bitching up a storm. Sitting accross from her husband at a picnic table, you wouldn't think it was so necessary to talk so loud (her site was a good 40ft or more away. This went on for two hrs and later included a cell phone conversation that got even more emotional. What the fuck is with these people and their total lack of consideration every campsite I have been to? Kids run loose, screaming and shouting all hrs of the day and night. With all the parkspace you would think you could get some peace and quiet.
I did some longer hikes today and saw some beautiful raging waterfalls and more mountain lakes. This time closer to the glaciers and much higher elevation. Upon reaching the summit of my hike, it cooled off from being an otherwise hot day and started to rain lightly. I did not mind, since the heat was sapping my energy and I headed back downhill briskly. Once I got in the shuttle bus, I was again hit by extreme exhaustion, thirst, hunger and a severe headache. Maybe it was the altitude (close to 10,000 ft), but I also don't think I ate enough last night or this am. I was a little foggy headed and slow to get going this am. I had no mt. dew or coffee to perk me up either.
I came back and napped for a few hrs, though I was in and out of sleep as it rained on and off and had a slight leak in the tent that hit me in the eye a few times, plus I had to block out the light to have a chance to sleep, then the kids started running and screaming around me again. I was super hungry, thirsty, head killing me. I did not want a camp meal in the rain again, like I had this afternoon. I instead headed for Estes Park to see what it had to offer. It was just a short driver from the east entrance and was a stunningly beautiful place. Rock outcropped peaks everywhere and views of the white peaks inside the park, from the center of town. A picture perfect town. Lots of shops and ice cream/candy places and restaurants were all along the main road. Plenty of hotels and cabins too. The famous Stanley hotel I stumbled onto as well. It reminded me of the Pinehurst Hotel, but with a red roof instead of Copper/green. I would guess it was the same architect. Gorgeous mountain homes were all along the surrounding slopes, with views to die for. What a place to live with the park just a few miles away and endless skiing options in the winter. The rain did not subside and was unusual again, which has been the theme of the trip. I was ok with it, other than taking down and packing a wet tent really sucks. Mud is splattered all over it and the rain will probably not stop anytime soon. Estes Park, from what I have seen so far, is an enviable place to live. I guess it is kind of a getaway spot for the locals.
Tomorrow I will check out Boulder on the way to see my old HS friend Sean in Denver for a few days.
Oh, I almost forgot. I finally got to see some elusive black bears today. A momma bear and cub, that couldn't have been more than 20-30 lbs They were brown in color and very cute walking along the road. The shuttle bus stopped to view them, but before I could get a picture they scurried along down the hillside. It was very exciting, considering how rare bear sightings are in RMNP, let alone the other parks. I also saw a coyote, walking through my campsite, as I was getting my stuff out of the car. Of course, when I grabbed my zoom lens camera, I forgot I had taken the battery out to charge and not replaced it. He was gone quickly.
I stopped in Boulder, CO and took a tour of the Celestial Seasonings Tea factory, which was fun and impressive. I really love their teas and it was just a very short detour. The neat thing about it was that as you walked past the different herbs, you could smell each new scent and it was quite pronounced. Hibiscus especially is a favorite ingredient. Then they had a closed off room just for the mints (spearmint, peppermint and one or two other). Wow those were so strong you could feel it in your nose and lungs. If you had a stuffy nose going in, it would surely clear up in just a few minutes. It must be kept behind closed doors to prevent it from permeating all the other herbs. Then the rain and lightening came and pelted me all the way to Denver.
I drove on to Central Colorado on 70 again. A very impressive highway that winds along and crosses over the Colorado River occassionally. The width and rapids vary as you travel along the many miles of the mighty river. The areas get quite narrow in places and the opposing Westbound lanes are often elevated and slightly overlapping the Eastbound lanes. I assume these were added later or they just could not carve deeper into the wall without creating rockslides. Several tunnels are encountered along the way, none as impressive as the Eisenhower tunnell that penetrates the Loveland pass and is about a mile long. I stopped at Glenwood Springs. A town built around the Glenwood springs pool and hotel. It has a massive pool and adjoining pools, water slides etc and a historic hotel next to the property. The pools are about the length of a football field or more and of varying temperatures 91-104F. The town accross the river looked quaint and bustling with some kind of festival and many restaurants and shops. Its interesting how the towns make use of the limited space of the mountain river valleys. Most of Central Co is like this from what I've seen. Nothing but peaks and narrow slots between. I needed some relaxation and it was a beautiful day here, so I decided to visit the springs and soak for a few hrs. Afterwords, I noticed a camping sign at the next exit up and it was early eve. I had considered driving up to Dillon lake near the major ski areas of Summit county, but was not sure of the camping situation there. I thought I would check this out anyway and maybe spend the night here. The campsites were right along the Colo River...this time really along it. Right up to the banks with trees to shade you, showers, wifi, laundry etc. Seemed good. They had one spot left and it was the one I noticed. At $38 w tax, it was a bit steep for a tent site, but it seemed like a cool place to bed down and let the rapids lull me to sleep. You only live once right?
Well, I set up camp and went back to the springs for another visit since I had paid for an all day pass. I came back, uploaded some pics from the previous days, charged up my phone, batteries and then went to bed. This was a nice little resort, and the river was very calming. Just one little hitch that would change my feelings about this place. At 115 am a train came barrelling down the tracks on the other side of the river, which is approx 30-50 foot wide at this point and meanders along the steep canyon walls, shaped by the strong currents. The train was louder than normal due to the bouncing off the opposing wall and the campsite took, was down at the bottom of a steep hill, so all the sound waves were compressed. The chug-a-chug-a, was almost bearable, but the screaching and whining of the steel wheels grinding on the bends of the steel tracks (or maybe that was the brakes?) was unbelievably loud and deafening and created a weird sorta harmonic effect like the reverb of an electric guitar amplifier. This woke me up, started my heart jumping and forced me to cover my ears. The aftershock made falling back to sleep a challenge. This repeated at least twice more during the night before the sun came up. I was also woke up early by some loud talking girl next door and couldnt sleep, as she would not shut up, shouting almost at the people who were standing next to her. This is a recurring theme. I would be a tired mess the rest of the day.
I can imagine, being the train conductor at night along those mountain routes must be scary. One false move and you could be in the river. Its also rather amazing how some of these routes must have been constructed initially and in such remote areas.
I got to Rocky Mtn. Nat. Park later that morning and drove in the west entrance. The windy roads take you up to 12,183 ft eventually with some stunning views of partially snow capped peaks, melting glaciers and melted tundra. Storms are off in the distance often. I really didn't know much about this park, prior to this trip, but it is pretty impressive. After passing the summit, I felt overcome with exhaustion after a few photo stops and took a short nap in the car. I felt like I was gonna pass out any minute. I was pressed for time to get a campsite, or I would have just taken my time. There was only one on the west side and it was being cleaned up with downed trees and looked a mess. I flipped a coin in my head and went to Morraine campsite. Sign said full. Sigh. I drove up anyway just to check it out. I asked the girl at the booth if she had some recommendations for other campsites, since this was full, and to my amazement she had one site left, just inside the entrance. I checked it out quick and settled on it for 2 nights. It was perfect. A 200 ft walk from the car up a hill but, nicely secluded as you can expect to get in a NP with amazing views of the peaks and meadow below and Sheltered slightly with trees too. I felt very fortunate to land this one.
After setting up camp and having a meal, I did a 2 mi hike to Dream lake. A beautiful mtn. lake, but the mosquitos and flys were so bad, I couldn't relax and enjoy the view. I had to keep moving or get bit. I stopped at Bear lake and one other lake on the way back. Still some snow remained on parts of the trail. I got to bed early and enjoyed a campfire. Once again I was woke up at 730am by some French woman who sounded like she was bitching up a storm. Sitting accross from her husband at a picnic table, you wouldn't think it was so necessary to talk so loud (her site was a good 40ft or more away. This went on for two hrs and later included a cell phone conversation that got even more emotional. What the fuck is with these people and their total lack of consideration every campsite I have been to? Kids run loose, screaming and shouting all hrs of the day and night. With all the parkspace you would think you could get some peace and quiet.
I did some longer hikes today and saw some beautiful raging waterfalls and more mountain lakes. This time closer to the glaciers and much higher elevation. Upon reaching the summit of my hike, it cooled off from being an otherwise hot day and started to rain lightly. I did not mind, since the heat was sapping my energy and I headed back downhill briskly. Once I got in the shuttle bus, I was again hit by extreme exhaustion, thirst, hunger and a severe headache. Maybe it was the altitude (close to 10,000 ft), but I also don't think I ate enough last night or this am. I was a little foggy headed and slow to get going this am. I had no mt. dew or coffee to perk me up either.
I came back and napped for a few hrs, though I was in and out of sleep as it rained on and off and had a slight leak in the tent that hit me in the eye a few times, plus I had to block out the light to have a chance to sleep, then the kids started running and screaming around me again. I was super hungry, thirsty, head killing me. I did not want a camp meal in the rain again, like I had this afternoon. I instead headed for Estes Park to see what it had to offer. It was just a short driver from the east entrance and was a stunningly beautiful place. Rock outcropped peaks everywhere and views of the white peaks inside the park, from the center of town. A picture perfect town. Lots of shops and ice cream/candy places and restaurants were all along the main road. Plenty of hotels and cabins too. The famous Stanley hotel I stumbled onto as well. It reminded me of the Pinehurst Hotel, but with a red roof instead of Copper/green. I would guess it was the same architect. Gorgeous mountain homes were all along the surrounding slopes, with views to die for. What a place to live with the park just a few miles away and endless skiing options in the winter. The rain did not subside and was unusual again, which has been the theme of the trip. I was ok with it, other than taking down and packing a wet tent really sucks. Mud is splattered all over it and the rain will probably not stop anytime soon. Estes Park, from what I have seen so far, is an enviable place to live. I guess it is kind of a getaway spot for the locals.
Tomorrow I will check out Boulder on the way to see my old HS friend Sean in Denver for a few days.
Oh, I almost forgot. I finally got to see some elusive black bears today. A momma bear and cub, that couldn't have been more than 20-30 lbs They were brown in color and very cute walking along the road. The shuttle bus stopped to view them, but before I could get a picture they scurried along down the hillside. It was very exciting, considering how rare bear sightings are in RMNP, let alone the other parks. I also saw a coyote, walking through my campsite, as I was getting my stuff out of the car. Of course, when I grabbed my zoom lens camera, I forgot I had taken the battery out to charge and not replaced it. He was gone quickly.
I stopped in Boulder, CO and took a tour of the Celestial Seasonings Tea factory, which was fun and impressive. I really love their teas and it was just a very short detour. The neat thing about it was that as you walked past the different herbs, you could smell each new scent and it was quite pronounced. Hibiscus especially is a favorite ingredient. Then they had a closed off room just for the mints (spearmint, peppermint and one or two other). Wow those were so strong you could feel it in your nose and lungs. If you had a stuffy nose going in, it would surely clear up in just a few minutes. It must be kept behind closed doors to prevent it from permeating all the other herbs. Then the rain and lightening came and pelted me all the way to Denver.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Rocky Mountain High: Colorado
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Leaving Arches was a welcome thought to escape the sun. I drove up the scenic byway along the Colorado River and passed ranches, wineries and historic places. A very wild and remote place along Eastern Utah. I reached Grand Junction and grabbed some quick food and a refreshing ice cold drink. Being in the desert really makes you appreciate ice even more than normal. I love my cold drinks. I stopped at the welcome center and got some brochures, since I wasn't completely sure what I was going to do in CO. There was a lot to choose from. I noticed Colorado National Monument was only 2 miles to the South and since I had an annual pass, I figured I could check it out and leave if it was nothing special. I am not sure I ever heard of it before. It is a national park, but the name is slightly decieving. I drove up some more windy roads from the valley floor and reached another high plateu. It was hot again, but not quite as intense as Utah, but still uncomfortable and I was trying to rehydrate. I decided to keep this a mostly air conditioned quick venture. It was about a 25 mile detour and ran from Fruita (note I also stayed in a town named Fruita in Utah) to Grand Jct. where I could pick up 70 again. It was mostly a drive along canyon rims with more stone monuments sticking up from the basin floors. An otherwise impressive view/park, but I was a little canyoned out and had seen so many over the last week or two, I didn't find it that exciting anymore. I made a few quick stops and took just a few photos.
I drove on to Central Colorado on 70 again. A very impressive highway that winds along and crosses over the Colorado River occassionally. The width and rapids vary as you travel along the many miles of the mighty river. The areas get quite narrow in places and the opposing Westbound lanes are often elevated and slightly overlapping the Eastbound lanes. I assume these were added later or they just could not carve deeper into the wall without creating rockslides. Several tunnels are encountered along the way, none as impressive as the Eisenhower tunnell that penetrates the Loveland pass and is about a mile long. I stopped at Glenwood Springs. A town built around the Glenwood springs pool and hotel. It has a massive pool and adjoining pools, water slides etc and a historic hotel next to the property. The pools are about the length of a football field or more and of varying temperatures 91-104F. The town accross the river looked quaint and bustling with some kind of festival and many restaurants and shops. Its interesting how the towns make use of the limited space of the mountain river valleys. Most of Central Co is like this from what I've seen. Nothing but peaks and narrow slots between. I needed some relaxation and it was a beautiful day here, so I decided to visit the springs and soak for a few hrs. Afterwords, I noticed a camping sign at the next exit up and it was early eve. I had considered driving up to Dillon lake near the major ski areas of Summit county, but was not sure of the camping situation there. I thought I would check this out anyway and maybe spend the night here. The campsites were right along the Colo River...this time really along it. Right up to the banks with trees to shade you, showers, wifi, laundry etc. Seemed good. They had one spot left and it was the one I noticed. At $38 w tax, it was a bit steep for a tent site, but it seemed like a cool place to bed down and let the rapids lull me to sleep. You only live once right?
Well, I set up camp and went back to the springs for another visit since I had paid for an all day pass. I came back, uploaded some pics from the previous days, charged up my phone, batteries and then went to bed. This was a nice little resort, and the river was very calming. Just one little hitch that would change my feelings about this place. At 115 am a train came barrelling down the tracks on the other side of the river, which is approx 30-50 foot wide at this point and meanders along the steep canyon walls, shaped by the strong currents. The train was louder than normal due to the bouncing off the opposing wall and the campsite took, was down at the bottom of a steep hill, so all the sound waves were compressed. The chug-a-chug-a, was almost bearable, but the screaching and whining of the steel wheels grinding on the bends of the steel tracks (or maybe that was the brakes?) was unbelievably loud and deafening and created a weird sorta harmonic effect like the reverb of an electric guitar amplifier. This woke me up, started my heart jumping and forced me to cover my ears. The aftershock made falling back to sleep a challenge. This repeated at least twice more during the night before the sun came up. I was also woke up early by some loud talking girl next door and couldnt sleep, as she would not shut up, shouting almost at the people who were standing next to her. This is a recurring theme. I would be a tired mess the rest of the day.
I can imagine, being the train conductor at night along those mountain routes must be scary. One false move and you could be in the river. Its also rather amazing how some of these routes must have been constructed initially and in such remote areas.
I got to Rocky Mtn. Nat. Park later that morning and drove in the west entrance. The windy roads take you up to 12,183 ft eventually with some stunning views of partially snow capped peaks, melting glaciers and melted tundra. Storms are off in the distance often. I really didn't know much about this park, prior to this trip, but it is pretty impressive. After passing the summit, I felt overcome with exhaustion after a few photo stops and took a short nap in the car. I felt like I was gonna pass out any minute. I was pressed for time to get a campsite, or I would have just taken my time. There was only one on the west side and it was being cleaned up with downed trees and looked a mess. I flipped a coin in my head and went to Morraine campsite. Sign said full. Sigh. I drove up anyway just to check it out. I asked the girl at the booth if she had some recommendations for other campsites, since this was full, and to my amazement she had one site left, just inside the entrance. I checked it out quick and settled on it for 2 nights. It was perfect. A 200 ft walk from the car up a hill but, nicely secluded as you can expect to get in a NP with amazing views of the peaks and meadow below and Sheltered slightly with trees too. I felt very fortunate to land this one.
After setting up camp and having a meal, I did a 2 mi hike to Dream lake. A beautiful mtn. lake, but the mosquitos and flys were so bad, I couldn't relax and enjoy the view. I had to keep moving or get bit. I stopped at Bear lake and one other lake on the way back. Still some snow remained on parts of the trail. I got to bed early and enjoyed a campfire. Once again I was woke up at 730am by some French woman who sounded like she was bitching up a storm. Sitting accross from her husband at a picnic table, you wouldn't think it was so necessary to talk so loud (her site was a good 40ft or more away. This went on for two hrs and later included a cell phone conversation that got even more emotional. What the fuck is with these people and their total lack of consideration every campsite I have been to? Kids run loose, screaming and shouting all hrs of the day and night. With all the parkspace you would think you could get some peace and quiet.
I did some longer hikes today and saw some beautiful raging waterfalls and more mountain lakes. This time closer to the glaciers and much higher elevation. Upon reaching the summit of my hike, it cooled off from being an otherwise hot day and started to rain lightly. I did not mind, since the heat was sapping my energy and I headed back downhill briskly. Once I got in the shuttle bus, I was again hit by extreme exhaustion, thirst, hunger and a severe headache. Maybe it was the altitude (close to 10,000 ft), but I also don't think I ate enough last night or this am. I was a little foggy headed and slow to get going this am. I had no mt. dew or coffee to perk me up either.
I came back and napped for a few hrs, though I was in and out of sleep as it rained on and off and had a slight leak in the tent that hit me in the eye a few times, plus I had to block out the light to have a chance to sleep, then the kids started running and screaming around me again. I was super hungry, thirsty, head killing me. I did not want a camp meal in the rain again, like I had this afternoon. I instead headed for Estes Park to see what it had to offer. It was just a short driver from the east entrance and was a stunningly beautiful place. Rock outcropped peaks everywhere and views of the white peaks inside the park, from the center of town. A picture perfect town. Lots of shops and ice cream/candy places and restaurants were all along the main road. Plenty of hotels and cabins too. The famous Stanley hotel I stumbled onto as well. It reminded me of the Pinehurst Hotel, but with a red roof instead of Copper/green. I would guess it was the same architect. Gorgeous mountain homes were all along the surrounding slopes, with views to die for. What a place to live with the park just a few miles away and endless skiing options in the winter. The rain did not subside and was unusual again, which has been the theme of the trip. I was ok with it, other than taking down and packing a wet tent really sucks. Mud is splattered all over it and the rain will probably not stop anytime soon. Estes Park, from what I have seen so far, is an enviable place to live. I guess it is kind of a getaway spot for the locals.
Tomorrow I will check out Boulder on the way to see my old HS friend Sean in Denver for a few days.
Oh, I almost forgot. I finally got to see some elusive black bears today. A momma bear and cub, that couldn't have been more than 20-30 lbs They were brown in color and very cute walking along the road. The shuttle bus stopped to view them, but before I could get a picture they scurried along down the hillside. It was very exciting, considering how rare bear sightings are in RMNP, let alone the other parks. I also saw a coyote, walking through my campsite, as I was getting my stuff out of the car. Of course, when I grabbed my zoom lens camera, I forgot I had taken the battery out to charge and not replaced it. He was gone quickly.
I drove on to Central Colorado on 70 again. A very impressive highway that winds along and crosses over the Colorado River occassionally. The width and rapids vary as you travel along the many miles of the mighty river. The areas get quite narrow in places and the opposing Westbound lanes are often elevated and slightly overlapping the Eastbound lanes. I assume these were added later or they just could not carve deeper into the wall without creating rockslides. Several tunnels are encountered along the way, none as impressive as the Eisenhower tunnell that penetrates the Loveland pass and is about a mile long. I stopped at Glenwood Springs. A town built around the Glenwood springs pool and hotel. It has a massive pool and adjoining pools, water slides etc and a historic hotel next to the property. The pools are about the length of a football field or more and of varying temperatures 91-104F. The town accross the river looked quaint and bustling with some kind of festival and many restaurants and shops. Its interesting how the towns make use of the limited space of the mountain river valleys. Most of Central Co is like this from what I've seen. Nothing but peaks and narrow slots between. I needed some relaxation and it was a beautiful day here, so I decided to visit the springs and soak for a few hrs. Afterwords, I noticed a camping sign at the next exit up and it was early eve. I had considered driving up to Dillon lake near the major ski areas of Summit county, but was not sure of the camping situation there. I thought I would check this out anyway and maybe spend the night here. The campsites were right along the Colo River...this time really along it. Right up to the banks with trees to shade you, showers, wifi, laundry etc. Seemed good. They had one spot left and it was the one I noticed. At $38 w tax, it was a bit steep for a tent site, but it seemed like a cool place to bed down and let the rapids lull me to sleep. You only live once right?
Well, I set up camp and went back to the springs for another visit since I had paid for an all day pass. I came back, uploaded some pics from the previous days, charged up my phone, batteries and then went to bed. This was a nice little resort, and the river was very calming. Just one little hitch that would change my feelings about this place. At 115 am a train came barrelling down the tracks on the other side of the river, which is approx 30-50 foot wide at this point and meanders along the steep canyon walls, shaped by the strong currents. The train was louder than normal due to the bouncing off the opposing wall and the campsite took, was down at the bottom of a steep hill, so all the sound waves were compressed. The chug-a-chug-a, was almost bearable, but the screaching and whining of the steel wheels grinding on the bends of the steel tracks (or maybe that was the brakes?) was unbelievably loud and deafening and created a weird sorta harmonic effect like the reverb of an electric guitar amplifier. This woke me up, started my heart jumping and forced me to cover my ears. The aftershock made falling back to sleep a challenge. This repeated at least twice more during the night before the sun came up. I was also woke up early by some loud talking girl next door and couldnt sleep, as she would not shut up, shouting almost at the people who were standing next to her. This is a recurring theme. I would be a tired mess the rest of the day.
I can imagine, being the train conductor at night along those mountain routes must be scary. One false move and you could be in the river. Its also rather amazing how some of these routes must have been constructed initially and in such remote areas.
I got to Rocky Mtn. Nat. Park later that morning and drove in the west entrance. The windy roads take you up to 12,183 ft eventually with some stunning views of partially snow capped peaks, melting glaciers and melted tundra. Storms are off in the distance often. I really didn't know much about this park, prior to this trip, but it is pretty impressive. After passing the summit, I felt overcome with exhaustion after a few photo stops and took a short nap in the car. I felt like I was gonna pass out any minute. I was pressed for time to get a campsite, or I would have just taken my time. There was only one on the west side and it was being cleaned up with downed trees and looked a mess. I flipped a coin in my head and went to Morraine campsite. Sign said full. Sigh. I drove up anyway just to check it out. I asked the girl at the booth if she had some recommendations for other campsites, since this was full, and to my amazement she had one site left, just inside the entrance. I checked it out quick and settled on it for 2 nights. It was perfect. A 200 ft walk from the car up a hill but, nicely secluded as you can expect to get in a NP with amazing views of the peaks and meadow below and Sheltered slightly with trees too. I felt very fortunate to land this one.
After setting up camp and having a meal, I did a 2 mi hike to Dream lake. A beautiful mtn. lake, but the mosquitos and flys were so bad, I couldn't relax and enjoy the view. I had to keep moving or get bit. I stopped at Bear lake and one other lake on the way back. Still some snow remained on parts of the trail. I got to bed early and enjoyed a campfire. Once again I was woke up at 730am by some French woman who sounded like she was bitching up a storm. Sitting accross from her husband at a picnic table, you wouldn't think it was so necessary to talk so loud (her site was a good 40ft or more away. This went on for two hrs and later included a cell phone conversation that got even more emotional. What the fuck is with these people and their total lack of consideration every campsite I have been to? Kids run loose, screaming and shouting all hrs of the day and night. With all the parkspace you would think you could get some peace and quiet.
I did some longer hikes today and saw some beautiful raging waterfalls and more mountain lakes. This time closer to the glaciers and much higher elevation. Upon reaching the summit of my hike, it cooled off from being an otherwise hot day and started to rain lightly. I did not mind, since the heat was sapping my energy and I headed back downhill briskly. Once I got in the shuttle bus, I was again hit by extreme exhaustion, thirst, hunger and a severe headache. Maybe it was the altitude (close to 10,000 ft), but I also don't think I ate enough last night or this am. I was a little foggy headed and slow to get going this am. I had no mt. dew or coffee to perk me up either.
I came back and napped for a few hrs, though I was in and out of sleep as it rained on and off and had a slight leak in the tent that hit me in the eye a few times, plus I had to block out the light to have a chance to sleep, then the kids started running and screaming around me again. I was super hungry, thirsty, head killing me. I did not want a camp meal in the rain again, like I had this afternoon. I instead headed for Estes Park to see what it had to offer. It was just a short driver from the east entrance and was a stunningly beautiful place. Rock outcropped peaks everywhere and views of the white peaks inside the park, from the center of town. A picture perfect town. Lots of shops and ice cream/candy places and restaurants were all along the main road. Plenty of hotels and cabins too. The famous Stanley hotel I stumbled onto as well. It reminded me of the Pinehurst Hotel, but with a red roof instead of Copper/green. I would guess it was the same architect. Gorgeous mountain homes were all along the surrounding slopes, with views to die for. What a place to live with the park just a few miles away and endless skiing options in the winter. The rain did not subside and was unusual again, which has been the theme of the trip. I was ok with it, other than taking down and packing a wet tent really sucks. Mud is splattered all over it and the rain will probably not stop anytime soon. Estes Park, from what I have seen so far, is an enviable place to live. I guess it is kind of a getaway spot for the locals.
Tomorrow I will check out Boulder on the way to see my old HS friend Sean in Denver for a few days.
Oh, I almost forgot. I finally got to see some elusive black bears today. A momma bear and cub, that couldn't have been more than 20-30 lbs They were brown in color and very cute walking along the road. The shuttle bus stopped to view them, but before I could get a picture they scurried along down the hillside. It was very exciting, considering how rare bear sightings are in RMNP, let alone the other parks. I also saw a coyote, walking through my campsite, as I was getting my stuff out of the car. Of course, when I grabbed my zoom lens camera, I forgot I had taken the battery out to charge and not replaced it. He was gone quickly.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Arches and Canyonlands
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I got to arches after a long desolate drive through desert and very isolated places with some very interesting scenery of what, like most of this stuff, was once seabed. Its hard to believe and you are just in awe at every turn and straightaway at the incomprehensible power of nature. The desert too proved to be as unforgiving as advertised on TV. It was still free weekend at the national parks, so I had to deal with the crowds on Sunday, but Monday was just as bad, if not worse, but manageable anyway. I did luck out and got a free night camping thanks to some nice bikers who had enough of the desert themselves I think. I camped on BLM land alongside the Colorado river within the canyon walls of 200 feet or so high. A neat surrounding, so I jumped on it and I was only 6 miles from the park. I found out at the gate the campsites fill up by 7:30!! WTF? Ok, no problem, turns out that campsite is like 30 miles into the park anyway. I was closer to Moab, which is a nice little oasis town full of adventurers (rafting, biking, ATV, off road Jeep rides, speedboats, mountain bikes, skydiving, you name it). Some nice looking restaurants, boutiques, hotels and resorts. If this was a destination vacation, I would have chosen one of the nice hotels over camping, but again this is about going as cheap as possible 95% of the time.
Well the campsite was nice, but it had its issues as I found out. First off it was so windy I couldn't put up the tent without a little help and without staking it down first on all 4 corners. INsane. That was just the first day. There is also some night tours that come by and shine real bright lights up on the walls of the canyon. No problem, kinda interesting and not invasive. There was however alot of in and out traffic along the gravel road all night, which was annoying. Only one way out too, so often people came in and out and floored it going out making more noise and dust. There was no shade. The sun was unrelenting both days. Intense as I have ever felt. I drank plenty of fluids and sought shelter on short hikes, but nothing was enough to keep you cool and hydrated. It would get to the point of feeling kinda nauseaus after a while. From 745am to 845 pm the sun would beat on you and you could feel the rays through your shirt even. Arches was quite interesting, but I wouldn't recommend visiting in the summer (on the solstace no less!). You do have to drive around alot, but you can see alot if thats all you chose to do, other than the two best arches. Those you have to hike 1-3 mi Round trip. I felt the deserts wrath here like no where else on the trip so far. Capitol Reef was quite pleasant, but I lucked out on weather I think. But having written this after crossing into Colorado, I still back that statement up. Much more pleasant here. Same altitude and longitude roughly. I am curious what the winters are like here. I do think they get down to 0-20F at night if I recall correctly. Id like to see arches with a dusting of snow.
After two half days at Arches NP, I had enough and really just wanted to sit in the shade, inside or swim in a cold pool, but I did not have those options. I was also missing the US Open final pushed back to Monday. I decided to use the balance of my time to see Canyonlands NP since I had a pass and it was just 9 or so miles up the road if that and it seemed like the type of place you didnt have to walk much. I was able to drive with the AC on to keep cool and its a long trek into the park down and up canyons to higher grassland plateus and then out to the farthest end of it for a fantasic view that probably rivals the Grand Canyon. This is just a higher elevated portion of the Colorado Plateu and flows down to the Grand Canyon. You can see where the Green River and Colorado merge. Its an amazing spectacle. There are two more parts to the park, but you have to circumnavigate to get to the needles section which also has two separate one way in/out entrances, divided by unnavigable terrain. Then there is the mazes which is not reachable by paved road. You have to drive dirt and hike to get to it. Its rough challenging backcountry that is one of the most remote areas of the continental US. Both look interesting, but to be honest a few days of desert and I had enough. All I can think about is ice cold drinks and getting wet. I had to keep buying ice to keep my drinks/groceries cold. I was lucky to get 8 hrs before it melted inside the coolers. Never had to buy ice at the other parks. Canyonlands is much less popular, so you can get some solitude if you want.
That eve, I could not wait for the sun to go down and til morning to leave this dry hot place and head for more hospitable locations. I could not even enjoy my dinner with the low sun beaming on my back. It would not really cool down til well into the night. Of note though, the night skys were spectacular like Capitol and Bryce and you could catch shooting stars pretty often and again see the milky way. A real treat for us east coasters. I was happy for what I have done on this journey, but I preferred the cool nights of the higher elevations and north country. Oh and I almost forgot. The Gnats here are ridiculous. Some kind of flys too, but the gnats would not leave you alone. That just added to the uncomfort.
Well the campsite was nice, but it had its issues as I found out. First off it was so windy I couldn't put up the tent without a little help and without staking it down first on all 4 corners. INsane. That was just the first day. There is also some night tours that come by and shine real bright lights up on the walls of the canyon. No problem, kinda interesting and not invasive. There was however alot of in and out traffic along the gravel road all night, which was annoying. Only one way out too, so often people came in and out and floored it going out making more noise and dust. There was no shade. The sun was unrelenting both days. Intense as I have ever felt. I drank plenty of fluids and sought shelter on short hikes, but nothing was enough to keep you cool and hydrated. It would get to the point of feeling kinda nauseaus after a while. From 745am to 845 pm the sun would beat on you and you could feel the rays through your shirt even. Arches was quite interesting, but I wouldn't recommend visiting in the summer (on the solstace no less!). You do have to drive around alot, but you can see alot if thats all you chose to do, other than the two best arches. Those you have to hike 1-3 mi Round trip. I felt the deserts wrath here like no where else on the trip so far. Capitol Reef was quite pleasant, but I lucked out on weather I think. But having written this after crossing into Colorado, I still back that statement up. Much more pleasant here. Same altitude and longitude roughly. I am curious what the winters are like here. I do think they get down to 0-20F at night if I recall correctly. Id like to see arches with a dusting of snow.
After two half days at Arches NP, I had enough and really just wanted to sit in the shade, inside or swim in a cold pool, but I did not have those options. I was also missing the US Open final pushed back to Monday. I decided to use the balance of my time to see Canyonlands NP since I had a pass and it was just 9 or so miles up the road if that and it seemed like the type of place you didnt have to walk much. I was able to drive with the AC on to keep cool and its a long trek into the park down and up canyons to higher grassland plateus and then out to the farthest end of it for a fantasic view that probably rivals the Grand Canyon. This is just a higher elevated portion of the Colorado Plateu and flows down to the Grand Canyon. You can see where the Green River and Colorado merge. Its an amazing spectacle. There are two more parts to the park, but you have to circumnavigate to get to the needles section which also has two separate one way in/out entrances, divided by unnavigable terrain. Then there is the mazes which is not reachable by paved road. You have to drive dirt and hike to get to it. Its rough challenging backcountry that is one of the most remote areas of the continental US. Both look interesting, but to be honest a few days of desert and I had enough. All I can think about is ice cold drinks and getting wet. I had to keep buying ice to keep my drinks/groceries cold. I was lucky to get 8 hrs before it melted inside the coolers. Never had to buy ice at the other parks. Canyonlands is much less popular, so you can get some solitude if you want.
That eve, I could not wait for the sun to go down and til morning to leave this dry hot place and head for more hospitable locations. I could not even enjoy my dinner with the low sun beaming on my back. It would not really cool down til well into the night. Of note though, the night skys were spectacular like Capitol and Bryce and you could catch shooting stars pretty often and again see the milky way. A real treat for us east coasters. I was happy for what I have done on this journey, but I preferred the cool nights of the higher elevations and north country. Oh and I almost forgot. The Gnats here are ridiculous. Some kind of flys too, but the gnats would not leave you alone. That just added to the uncomfort.
Bryce Canyon Hoodoos
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Bryce
I am playing catchup as I have had limited access to blog or type with precious battery power. Bryce was basically what I expected. Zion was a tough act to follow. I had only planned to spend one day/night there, but because I was so exhausted from too much activity and the strenuous Angel's Landing hike I needed an extra day to just relax and take it easy. I did take a lot of photos, but found it difficult to get really great shots at Bryce. The lighting dynamic range was often too wide to capture as I wished, the angles were not just right and part of the second day was driving alot to see the various areas along the 16 mile or more drive. Most were not as impressive as the main sections near the entrance. I did not hike the first day, I caught up on some things and met some interesting people that I spent time talking/socializing with, one of which was even from Durham and working at the campstore. Small world indeed. I compared trip notes with a man from Germany (currently living in LA), who was seeing many of the same places and also doing alot of photography, and we each suggested other places to see and visit. In trying to find the astronomy talks and stargazing centers, I also stumbled into another Bryce employee who was also lost in the pitch black star filled night trying to find the same thing and we teamed up to located the telescopes and shared alot of intersting conversations along the way. It was nice to finally have some interesting company on the long solo journey and get some insights into seasonal working and share some snarky humor too.
Finally, after weeks of waiting I was able to see the Milky Way Galaxy at Bryce, far from the polluted city skies. What an amazing site. Now I can get just a little incling what it must have been like for the ancients and native americans to stare at the beautiful star filled night sky. I hoped to get some long exposure photos done, but got too tired and cold late at night after the activities to give it a go, knowing it is a trial and error kinda process. I may try tonight at Capitol Reef. Now proclaimed the best stargazing site in the Continental US according to the Ranger at the Visitors center.
I had pretty good weather at Bryce. Just a little of the shadowing rain that I can't shake, but nothing severe. IT does get cold there after midnight, but I kept warm in my sleeping bag. Bryce was somewhat reminiscent of the Badlands, but on a bigger scale maybe and you could not drive through it like you could in SD, which is a really cool experience. You can see for over a hundred miles in places though. Sadly I had the most obnoxious campers nearby. One foreign couple with a child that just never would stop crying/whining and they never seemed to try to stop it. A family of five with 3 kids, 5 bikes, 5 chairs, 3-4 tents and buttloads of stuff packed in and on top of their king sized SUV. I saw their pack laid out the day I left and don't know how they ever fit all that crap in one vehicle. Then hordes of kids running and screaming like mad. It is becoming epidemic lately with crying and misbehaving kids everywhere. Not to mention the tour busses that pour into the parks and clog everything up immediately like a flash flood of senior citizens.
I am playing catchup as I have had limited access to blog or type with precious battery power. Bryce was basically what I expected. Zion was a tough act to follow. I had only planned to spend one day/night there, but because I was so exhausted from too much activity and the strenuous Angel's Landing hike I needed an extra day to just relax and take it easy. I did take a lot of photos, but found it difficult to get really great shots at Bryce. The lighting dynamic range was often too wide to capture as I wished, the angles were not just right and part of the second day was driving alot to see the various areas along the 16 mile or more drive. Most were not as impressive as the main sections near the entrance. I did not hike the first day, I caught up on some things and met some interesting people that I spent time talking/socializing with, one of which was even from Durham and working at the campstore. Small world indeed. I compared trip notes with a man from Germany (currently living in LA), who was seeing many of the same places and also doing alot of photography, and we each suggested other places to see and visit. In trying to find the astronomy talks and stargazing centers, I also stumbled into another Bryce employee who was also lost in the pitch black star filled night trying to find the same thing and we teamed up to located the telescopes and shared alot of intersting conversations along the way. It was nice to finally have some interesting company on the long solo journey and get some insights into seasonal working and share some snarky humor too.
Finally, after weeks of waiting I was able to see the Milky Way Galaxy at Bryce, far from the polluted city skies. What an amazing site. Now I can get just a little incling what it must have been like for the ancients and native americans to stare at the beautiful star filled night sky. I hoped to get some long exposure photos done, but got too tired and cold late at night after the activities to give it a go, knowing it is a trial and error kinda process. I may try tonight at Capitol Reef. Now proclaimed the best stargazing site in the Continental US according to the Ranger at the Visitors center.
I had pretty good weather at Bryce. Just a little of the shadowing rain that I can't shake, but nothing severe. IT does get cold there after midnight, but I kept warm in my sleeping bag. Bryce was somewhat reminiscent of the Badlands, but on a bigger scale maybe and you could not drive through it like you could in SD, which is a really cool experience. You can see for over a hundred miles in places though. Sadly I had the most obnoxious campers nearby. One foreign couple with a child that just never would stop crying/whining and they never seemed to try to stop it. A family of five with 3 kids, 5 bikes, 5 chairs, 3-4 tents and buttloads of stuff packed in and on top of their king sized SUV. I saw their pack laid out the day I left and don't know how they ever fit all that crap in one vehicle. Then hordes of kids running and screaming like mad. It is becoming epidemic lately with crying and misbehaving kids everywhere. Not to mention the tour busses that pour into the parks and clog everything up immediately like a flash flood of senior citizens.
The Grand Wash
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6/20/09
Well I wish I could say I got to take a nice long hot shower, but no such luck and its been a few days, since I have, but who's counting? No after two nights camping in Bryce Canyon, I got up early (thanks to the loud people around me and the non-stop crying toddler nearby both days) and headed for Arches NP, but a funny thing happend on the way. I keep joking that they should just call Utah "Utah National Park" instead of having all these different ones. Every drive is an adventure and constant change of dramatic scenery. I took the well regarded scenic route 12 and it was no disappointment. The scenery was unbelievable on the way. Canyon butrised farms and ranches, molded and weathered limestone and sandstone mounds, buttes, canyons, monuments, ridges-you name it. Breathtaking the further along you got away from Bryce and ever changing. Escalante was especially nice and then over the spine to Boulder, which as a cute, but very remote town in a hole between ranges of limestone or sandstone domes and ridges. I saw the Calf Creek, which I hope to return to someday. It was not a place I was aware of but did have a campsite, coffee shop overlooking the valley and some intersting sounding hiking trails. There is a 5.5 mi trail along the creek that carves into the surrounding rocks and is lined with trees, leading to a 120 ft waterfall at the end and a turquoise plunge pool. It was very cold, rainy and windy in that area today, but surely unusual. I will someday return here to do that hike and take in the otherworldly landscape.
Passing there it seemed like I was finally heading to the desert areas like I had expected in Arches and for a while it was a little desert like, with the occassional contrast of green pastures enveloped in brown sandstone canyon walls, with houses perched on the upper ridges of these 15-50 footish mesas. The climate turned sunny and warm too. A microclimate. That didn't last long, as I entered the Dixie National Forest it began to cool down and rain. The forest was something I have never seen before. It was exclusively tall white Aspen trees, well spaced out and green leaved. IT was a beautiful magical looking forest unlike any I had seen. I stopped to take in a panorama as I got up to 9600 feet and it was very windy, raining slightly and the wind chill must have been 30F. The parkland was dotted with campsites that made me once again envy Utah residents multitude of naturistic escapes. Accross the way was again, green strips of land surrounded by desert walls dotted with pines and sagebrush and behind that a 10,000ft+ range of the Henry mountains as a backdrop that was obviously getting rain as well. It was a small range though 3-4 peaks, but jutting up from the floor pretty abrubtly. After the steep descent though and out of the forest there were some other trees mingled with the Aspen and the rain ceased and again warmed up as I got into lower altitudes.
Not long after the climate and landscape changed yet again. Still cloudy and cool, but dryer and less windy. I stopped for a coffee and Mint truffle, instead of lunch (I couldn't bear Subway again and they charged $9 for a footlong in Bryce, so I thought it might be the same). The coffee was a pick me up, but the truffle wasn't up to my expectations. I think they used peppermint, which just didn't seem to gel with the chocolate flavor, but otherwise ok. I then entered the towering and eroding red canyon bluffs and the chimney rock at the entrance to Capitol Reef NP. I planned to see what it was like, but had low expectations, besides the fact that it was narrow from West to East and long from North to South. The scenry was breathtaking though and the weather warm. There were orchards within the warm confines of the canyon floor, deer walking about the picnic area, ancient wide oak trees, towering monuments and cliffs of various colors and a campsite among these treasures of a desert oasis like I had never seen. My curiosity was piqued. I went in the visitor center and got some info, but just then another damn tour bus of old people was unloading into the small, spartan visitor center (way smaller than any of the NP's I have been to). The movie was a 10 min wait so I figured I would drive into the park a few miles and see what it was all about. A picture of some people in a dried out canyon called The Great Wash caught my attention, so I decided to investigate, since I had wanted to hike a "narrows like" trail that I missed at Zion. This wasn't so narrow but huge in scale. The drive in was awe inspiring. I figured I could do a short hike and catch the movie and drive on to Arches, since I was making good time. Was I ever wrong on that plan.
It was about a mile + drive down a gravel riverbed road shouldered by towering weathered cliffs. I started to wonder if this was a trail or a road. Finally a parking lot. The hike was amazing. The canyon was about 40-100 foot wide as it meandered and winded through the steep, torn rock walls. There were holes and crevices everywhere and overwhelming evidence of erosion on a massive scale. The possibilities for exploration of the side canyons and bluffs was endless. Relatively easy climbs up rubble and carved slopes made it possible to make climbs to the upper reaches of the canyon, but I was just here for a short walk right? I thought this was a 1.3 mile trail, but I just kept walking and taking photos and taking in the amazing scenery. After what felt like a few miles and more than an hour I encountered some women walking the other way. The informed me I was just 5 min from the end of the trail that came back out on route 24 which is the road I came in on. After a few min more the walls got shorter, so I turned around rather than take the longer circuitous and unknown route back along the highway. Going the opposite direction also provided a new perspective of what I just saw. It was a realy neat experience to see this. Legend has it Butch Cassidy and his gang used this area as a hideout and you could just imagine them riding horses into this remote and safe place. You got the feeling you could realy hide out here for a long time without being located (for better or worse). I felt as far away from civilization as I have ever felt. With a little more time, I could definitely enjoy climbing some of the side routes and exploring the hidden canyons and slots along the main valley. Luckily it wasn't sunny and hot, as I imagine it normally is and you could really bake in this place on a hot day. The sun did come out for a while as I neared the parking lot on the way back and was a welcome sign. I drove down to the far end of the main road to another canyon, but it was closed for flash flood possibilities. The erosion and deposits of rock, sand, mud along the way was like mass destruction on an epic scale. I went back, got a campsite, set up camp and caught the short film. Then had a picnic in the beautiful orchard surrounded picnic area, where a deer walked right by and grazed with me as I ate my soup and had a long awaited cold beer. I later noticed her doe and another adult wandering around the field and are obviously quite used to humans. They say Capitol Reef is among the least visited National Parks, and after having visited, I have to wonder why. What a beautiful Oasis (literally). It is what they call a waterpocket fold. Surrounded by desert on all sides with the Virgin river running through it. This weekend is Free entrance to all national parks, so the full campground and surprisingly many cars may be unusual. I get the impression its usually a little less crowded. I think it is a well kept secret treasure and the surprise of my trip thus far. OF course, like clockwork I am getting rained on as I speak and have obnoxiously loud foreginers with screaming kids and loud music accross the street. The rain and annoying people keep following me. Tomorrow on to Arches?
Friday, June 19, 2009
Zion NP
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Zion is an amazing place. I will leave out the boring details. Suffice it to say Utah has a lot of open space and dramatic scenery. THe entrance into Zion was beautiful. Towering cliffs eroded with time, similar to what you would expect at the Grand Canyon I assume. There are some residential towns around and outside Zion, which is interesting, since it is pretty remote. Nice climate and very dry (though of course the rain found me again on two days). It was a refreshing cool down anyway. The canyon walls and monuments are beautiful and awe inspiring. Camp is situated right inside the canyon, with great views and shelter, though a breeze blows pretty constantly. On my last day I decided to attempt the Angel's Landing hike. It is world famous, strenuous and steep with a climb of 1400 vertical feet in 2.5 miles, with views of the entire canyon valley. There is one section of 21 short steep switchbacks to get up to scouts lookout. It was tiring to get there along, but there is still another trecherous half mile climb to the summit, which sits alone in the middle of the valley floor with 1200 foot drops to the floor. At one point about 3 feet wide you have 900 and 1200 drops on each side, with a chain to hold on to. This is where most people turn back.
The view ahead is intimidating and fearful to say the least. As I said to some fellow hikers (or should I say climbers?), I don't have a fear of heights, but I do have a fear of falling. I got over to the thin crescent shaped monolith and seriously considered turning back myself, but the hike up was work and I made a good pace and thought this was a once in a lifetime experience and decided to push on and take the risk. It looked like it would be harder coming down actually. Fine powdery dust on sandstone and limestone rocks, small footholds and lots of chains to hold on to. I held on to them with dear life and sweaty hands going all the way up. All the while asking myself, "am I crazy for doing this?". It was a slow climb, with people coming down, people changing their minds and unsure of themselves. Even some small kids made the trek, as well as older people. Stopping to wait for people to pass was a good excuse to catch your breath or take a drink of water. It was in the 90s and sunny with a stiff breeze all day. I think it was best to go early or late for this hike to avoide the crowds. The views were spectacular and of course, once you are up there, you can say it was worth it and highly recommend it to those without a fear of heights. On every edge you can stare down at the valley floor and river with dizzying stares. I took a well deserved rest, had a snack and shot some pictures and talked with some others I met on the way up. The hike down was surprisingly easy comparitively and I made the entire trip in about 3.5 hrs. My legs got wobbly and I am sore today from alot of activity. Of course, I forgot my walking sticks I got for xmas, which would have made the walk down easier on the lower half. I took the shuttle back to my car and headed on to Bryce Canyon. The first leg of the trip took me through a pitch black mile long tunnel, with occassional windows. It was hard to see without brights on after coming from the bright sunlight. The east side of Zion was just as spectactular, but different types of formations. I wish I had budgeted time for a hike on that side, but I had my mind made up already.
The view ahead is intimidating and fearful to say the least. As I said to some fellow hikers (or should I say climbers?), I don't have a fear of heights, but I do have a fear of falling. I got over to the thin crescent shaped monolith and seriously considered turning back myself, but the hike up was work and I made a good pace and thought this was a once in a lifetime experience and decided to push on and take the risk. It looked like it would be harder coming down actually. Fine powdery dust on sandstone and limestone rocks, small footholds and lots of chains to hold on to. I held on to them with dear life and sweaty hands going all the way up. All the while asking myself, "am I crazy for doing this?". It was a slow climb, with people coming down, people changing their minds and unsure of themselves. Even some small kids made the trek, as well as older people. Stopping to wait for people to pass was a good excuse to catch your breath or take a drink of water. It was in the 90s and sunny with a stiff breeze all day. I think it was best to go early or late for this hike to avoide the crowds. The views were spectacular and of course, once you are up there, you can say it was worth it and highly recommend it to those without a fear of heights. On every edge you can stare down at the valley floor and river with dizzying stares. I took a well deserved rest, had a snack and shot some pictures and talked with some others I met on the way up. The hike down was surprisingly easy comparitively and I made the entire trip in about 3.5 hrs. My legs got wobbly and I am sore today from alot of activity. Of course, I forgot my walking sticks I got for xmas, which would have made the walk down easier on the lower half. I took the shuttle back to my car and headed on to Bryce Canyon. The first leg of the trip took me through a pitch black mile long tunnel, with occassional windows. It was hard to see without brights on after coming from the bright sunlight. The east side of Zion was just as spectactular, but different types of formations. I wish I had budgeted time for a hike on that side, but I had my mind made up already.
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